In this Flat Land, the Roads Are Arrow Straight.
“We whizz through the flat open land, not a car anywhere, hardly a tree, but the road is smooth and clean and the engine now has a "packed," high rpm sound that says it’s right on. It gets darker and darker. .. A flash and Ka-wham! of thunder, one right on top of the other. That shook me, and Chris has got his head against my back now.“
Near Gwinner, ND. This North Dakota highway is perfectly straight, often for 20 miles at a time. However really bad “S” curves do occur with no apparent reason. Surveying error "off-sets" in section lines? This problem is very evident, in the county roads in Northern Ohio where I grew up.
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(Photo = 103-0308 ...... ZMM Page = 026 ...... WayPt = 021w ####ft)

As Stated on ZMM Page 016, "The farmhouses are clean and white and fresh.”
"A few warning drops of rain-at this speed they are like needles. [At 95 MPH] A second flash...WHAM and everything brilliant-and then in the brilliance of the next flash that farmhouse-that windmill-oh, my God, he’s been here! -- throttle off-this is his road-a fence and trees-and the speed drops to seventy, then sixty, then fifty-five and I hold it there.“
West of Stirum, ND. Here I start my systematic search for a farm house plus windmill that fits above description of "the farm house and windmill illuminated by lightning." The closest examples I found are photos 103-0316 and 103-0350 (later in this Album). But neither of these houses had a water tower + drainage ditch + crossroad. Please let me know where better examples exist in Southeastern, ND. area & adjacent SD.
(Photo = 103-0305 ...... ZMM Page = 026 ...... WayPt = 018`|w|' 1370ft)

South View, Big Cottonwood Trees In Distance.
"The house and water tower have gone by and then a small drainage ditch appears and a crossroad leading off to the horizon. Yes—that’s right, I think. That’s exactly right. .. "They’re way ahead of us!" Chris hollers. "Speed up!" … I turn my head from side to side. .. "Not safe!" .. "They’re gone!" .. "They’ll wait." .. "Speed up!" .. "No." I shake my head. It’s just a feeling. On a cycle you trust them and we stay at fifty-five. .. The first rain begins now but up ahead I see the lights of a town . . . .“
South View Oakes, ND. Ever since Breckenridge, MN., I traveled directly West on ND. Rt-12 which is a "section line" road. To reach Ellendale, ND. on major West highway ND. Rt-11, I turned directly South to Oakes,, ND.. on ND. Rt-1 which is a "section line" road. Note big Cottonwood trees in distance at center of photo. These trees were the (likely) waiting place for John and Sylvia. The trees are beside a restaurant and large parking lot.
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(Photo = 103-0318c ...... ZMM Page = 026 ...... WayPt = 031`|f|' 1313ft)

Big Cottonwood Trees at North Town Entrance.
"I knew it [the town] would be there. .. When we arrive John and Sylvia are there under the first tree by the road, waiting for us. .. "What happened to you?" .. "Slowed down." .. "Well, we know that. Something wrong?".. "No. Let’s get out of this rain.“
Rt1 North Side of Oakes, ND. Are these the Big Cottonwood Trees mentioned in above passage? Although unsafe from lightning, this is the (likely) waiting place for John and Sylvia to be sheltered from rain. A restaurant and large parking lot is beside the trees. Although rainfall, on average, is rare in this area, Oakes did receive a very nice drenching the night I stayed there, 16 June 03. Please advance three photos to see inside of restaurant.
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(Photo = 103-0319c ...... ZMM Page = 027 ...... WayPt = 032`|e|' 1313ft)

Once-Upon-a-Time Rural Section Line Crossroads, and Now Town Center.
"John says there is a motel at the other end of town, but I tell him there’s a better one if you turn right, at a row of cottonwoods a few blocks down. .. We turn at the cottonwoods and travel a few blocks, … "
South View Main Street Oakes, ND. Many years ago the one major Highway through Oakes went E-W at this traffic light. This is why the two existing Oakes motels are either direction at this intersection. As indicated by the above passage, the Motel Pirsig probably used in 1968 was two blocks West of town center. But this motel was torn down about 2001. There is a newer motel, also on the West side, but on the opposite side of the road and somewhat closer to the stop light.
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(Photo = 103-0323 ...... ZMM Page = 027 ...... WayPt = 033`|w|' 1313ft)

Fifties Style Motel Southeastern North Dakota.
"…..and a small motel appears. Inside the office John looks around and says, "This is a good place. When were you here before?" .. "I don’t remember," I say. ... Sylvia has been watching me silently for some time. She notices my hands are unsteady as I sign in. "You look awfully pale," she says. "Did that lightning shake you up?" .. "No." .. "You look like you’d seen a ghost." .. John and Chris look at me and I turn away from them to the door. It is still raining hard, but we make a run for it to the rooms.“
E&I Motel Eight Blocks East of Stop Light Oakes, ND. Although the ZMM traveler must turn left to reach the E&I Motel, it is the only remaining Oaks motel similar in style and age to what Pirsig would have experienced in his 1968 trip.
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(Photo = 103-0324s ...... ZMM Page = 027 ...... WayPt = 034`|h|' 1313ft)

An Oakes North Dakota Restaurant.
"The gear on the cycles is protected and we wait until the storm passes over before removing it. After the rain stops, the sky lightens a little. But from the motel courtyard, I see past the cottonwoods that a second darkness, that of night, is about to come on. We walk into town, have supper, .... "
Rt1 North of Oakes, ND. 7:30pm Evening meal at an Oakes Restaurant North side of Oakes on Rt1. I also arrived in Oakes in the early evening, have my supper here and stayed overnight in Oakes, but at the E & I Motel. I also experienced rain, but it came and went, quietly, over night.
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(Photo = 103-0321c ...... ZMM Page = 027 ...... WayPt = 032`|u|' 1313ft)

Metal Armchairs Would "Fit Right In" at The E & I Motel
" … and by the time we get back, the fatigue of the day is really on me. We rest, almost motionless, in the metal armchairs of the motel courtyard, slowly working down a pint of whiskey that John brought with some mix from the motel cooler. It goes down slowly and agreeably. A cool night wind rattles the leaves of the cottonwoods along the road."
E&I Motel Eight Blocks East of Stop Light Oakes, ND. Summer 2003. E&I Motel is the only remaining Oaks motel similar in style and age to what Pirsig would have experienced in his 1968Trip. The Motel he probably used was two blocks West of town center and was torn down about 2001.
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(Photo = 103-0326c ...... ZMM Page = 027 ...... WayPt = 035`|h|' 1313ft)

Mr. Vern Gephardt and His Case-International Disk Harrow Rig.
"Roads with little traffic are more enjoyable, … where kids wave to you when you ride by, where people look from their porches to see who it is, where when you stop to ask directions or information the answer tends to be longer than you want rather than short, where people ask where you’re from and how long you’ve been riding.“
Luden, ND. After Oakes, I also get back on the road the next morning. I stop to photograph a Redwinged Blackbird on the green road marker sign. After studying my maps 30 minutes, a huge Case-International tractor rig with disk comes up this side read and stops. Vern Gephardt (Gephart?), shuts off the engine, and comes over to my car to see if I need help. We have a long & good conversation about the wild life population cycles here. Mr. Gephardt explained his observations on the population increases and disease related crashes in the fox vs coyote.
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(Photo = 103-0335c ...... ZMM Page = 005 ...... WayPt = 037`|w|' 1384ft)

It Is Easy to Spot a Town On the, ND. Prairie.
"This one, [the narrator’s motorcycle] despite the murderous treatment it got at the hands of those alleged mechanics, seems to have recovered and has been requiring fewer and fewer repairs as time goes on. .. There it is! Ellendale! .. A water tower, groves of trees and buildings among them in the morning sunlight. I’ve just given in to the shivering which has been almost continuous the whole trip. The watch says seven-fifteen.“
Ellendale, ND. is announced by water tower, county courthouse, buildings and trees. All trees you see are those planted for shade and windbreaks. Ellendale, like most towns in the dry dusty western regions, does not run the major highway directly down its main street and business district.
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(Photo = ...... 103-0337f ...... ZMM Page = 039 WayPt = 039`|f|' 1456ft)

Here's Where to Go for Breakfast and Lunch.
"A few minutes later we park by some old brick buildings. I turn to John and Sylvia who have pulled up behind us. "That was cold!" I say. .. They just stare at me fish-eyed… "Bracing, what?" I say. No answer. .. I wait until they are completely off, … and we all move toward the restaurant. .. I try again. I’m walking backward in front of them toward the restaurant, feeling a little manic from the ride, wringing my hands and laughing. "Sylvia! Speak to me!" Not a smile.“
Ellendale, ND. figures it is big enough for a stoplight in this, its main business district! Nodak Hotel name is contraction of “North Dakota”. The restaurant has taken over the whole ground floor, but the upstairs appears vacated. The varnished lobby floor reported on ZMM page 040 has apparently been covered up in the expansion of the restaurant.
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(Photo = 103-0339 ...... ZMM Page = 039 ...... WayPt = 041`|k|' 1456ft)

Very Busy, So Get Here Early.
"I guess they really were cold. .. They order breakfast without looking up.
Breakfast ends, and I say finally, "What next?" .. John says slowly and deliberately, "We’re not leaving here until it warms up." He has a sheriff-at-sundown tone in his voice, which I suppose makes it final. .. So John and Sylvia and Chris sit and stay warm in the lobby of the hotel adjoining the restaurant, while I go out for a walk..“
Ellendale, ND. Here the downtown restaurant is popular and busy, so you better come early! As I discovered, there is delayed service for those who look or act like a person trying to sell something!
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(Photo = 103-0343 ...... ZMM Page = 039 ...... WayPt = 041`|u|' 1456ft)

The Town Temperature and Flowers Clean and Fresh.
"…now that I think of it, I’ve never been cycling with them [John & Sylvia] before one or two o’clock in the afternoon, although for me dawn and early morning is always the greatest time for riding. .. The town is clean and fresh and unlike the one we woke up in this morning. Some people are on the street and are opening stores and saying, "Good morning" and talking and commenting about how cold it is. Two thermometers on the shady side of the street read 42 and 46 degrees. One in the sun reads 65 degrees.“
Main Street Ellendale, ND. showing the front of the Nodak Hotel and the entrance to the restaurant. Now-a-days, the "clean and fresh" includes a park and flowers and the large bank sign, showing the temperature.
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(Photo = 103-0342r ...... ZMM Page = 040 ...... WayPt = 041`|m|' 1456ft)

General Overview of Downtown Ellendale.
"After a few blocks the main street goes onto two hard, muddy tracks into a field, past a quonset hut full of farm machinery and repair tools, and then ends in a field. A man standing in the field is looking at me suspiciously, wondering what I am doing, probably, as I look into the Quonset hut. I return down the street, find a chilly bench and stare at the motorcycle. Nothing to do. .. It was cold all right, but not that cold. How do John and Sylvia ever get through Minnesota winters? I wonder. There’s kind of a glaring inconsistency here, that’s almost too obvious to dwell on. If they can’t stand physical discomfort and they can’t stand technology, they’ve got a little compromising to do.“ Ellendale, ND. The town's single remaining "Quonset Hut" (at far right with curved roof) is one block North of Main Street. Nodak Hotel is at far left.
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(Photo = 103-0345 ...... ZMM Page = 040 ...... Wept = 044`|w|' 1456ft)

Its Not Very Far to the Edge of Town. "They [John & Sylvia] depend on technology and condemn it at the same time. … They’re not presenting a logical thesis, … But three farmers are coming into town now, rounding the corner in that brand-new pickup truck. I’ll bet with them it’s just the other way around. They’re going to show off that truck and their tractor and that new washing machine and they’ll have the tools to fix them if they go wrong, and know how to use the tools. They value technology. And they’re the ones who need it the least. If all technology stopped, tomorrow, these people would know how to make out. It would be rough, but they’d survive.“ Ellendale, ND. West Main Street takes the traveler to these two unused RR stations, an electric power substation, and elevator. A second huge elevator is out of view. ************************************ (Photo = 103-0340s ...... ZMM Page = 040 ...... Wept = 042`|w|' 1456ft)

North Dakota Spring Time. "The tired feeling wears off completely and the wind and sun feel good now, making it real. It’s happening, just from the warming of the sun, the road and green prairie farmland and buffeting wind coming together. And soon it is nothing but beautiful warmth and wind and speed and sun down the empty road. The last chills of the morning are thawed by the warm air. Wind and more sun and more smooth road. .. So green this summer and so fresh. .. There are white and gold daisies among the grass in front of an old wire fence, a meadow with some cows and far in the distance a low rising of the land with something golden on it. Hard to know what it is. No need to know." West of Oakes, ND. Need photos for this area, especially showing above ZMM passage. ************************************ (Photo = 103-0336c ...... ZMM Page = 042 ...... Wept = 042i 1456ft. Photo at 038`|w|' 1413ft) ~6 East of Ellendale, ND.

Perfectly Flat Eastern North Dakota Prairie Is Changing To the High Planes. " Where there is a slight rise in the road the drone of the motor becomes heavier. We top the rise, see a new spread of land before us, the road descends and the drone of the engine falls away again. Prairie. Tranquil and detached." … Ellendale, ND. Need better photos for Highway West of here. ZMM Narrator is consistently accurate to the landscape. Need photos for what the Narrator says here, and throughout ZMM. This “undulation” may be discerned in the next five photos, where you will note hills and various aspects of not-flat terrain. Concerning this exact realism, Pirsig said in letters to his editor at Morrow Publishers my book "needs all the help it can get". Exact quote will be found in appendix to Harper-Collins 25th year anniversary edition of ZMM.
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(Photo = ...... 103-0363c ...... ZMM Page = 042 …... WayPt = 042i2 1456ft. Photo at 048`|w|' 1972ft) Photo is actually at 20 Mi West of Ellendale, ND.

House on the Prairie, Empty, Quiet, Lonely.
"Later, when we stop, Sylvia has tears in her eyes from the wind, and she stretches out her arms and says, "It’s so beautiful. It’s so empty." .. I show Chris how to spread his jacket on the ground and use an extra shirt for a pillow. He is not at all sleepy but I tell him to lie down anyway, he’ll need the rest. I open up my own jacket to soak up more heat.“
12Mi West of Ellendale, ND. is where I stopped to photograph a "Windmill & Farmhouse Scene" that may be a prototype of the “house and windmill illuminated by lightning bolt” on ZMM page 026. A photograph true to the “house and windmill with water tower and drainage ditch” is still needed. Also needed are photos to show the "water tower + drainage ditch cross road" that were supposedly after the house. The lightning bolt was on the Narrators way to Oakes, ND.
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(Photo = 103-0350 ...... ZMM Page = 042 ...... WayPt = 045`|w|' 1542ft)