Yup!! Here Is the Underpass Just Where the Narrator Said It Was!
“We meet John again and it’s settled. Soon, beyond a railroad underpass, ….. “ This underpass is just West of the Owl Restaurant. , As was the case for me in 2002, it is easy to miss the left turn South onto Rt212. Also I missed taking this photo which had to wait until I returned here in 2006.
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(Photo = Summer2006 0399 ...... ZMM Page = 105 ...... WayPt = 122i)

For Three Years This Was A Substitute Photo From Baker Oregon, Yet No One Noticed The Discrepancy! What Do We Learn From This?
“[We meet John again and it’s settled. Soon, beyond a railroad underpass, ….. ]“ Laurel, MT. In 2002, I neglected to get a photo of the ZMM Narrator's RR underpass at Laurel (previous photo). So I when I discovered this similar underpass at Baker, Oregon, I remembered my omission and purposefully got this shot. For three years this was just a substitute photo, yet no one noticed the discrepancy and/or mentioned it to me.
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(Photo = 112-1208 ...... ZMM Page = 105 ...... WayPt = 122i …… Photo from WayPt = 308w)

A Safe Place to Stop, Rest, Enjoy the Scenery, and Review ZMM
“ …. we are on a twisting blacktop through fields toward the mountains up ahead. This is a road Phædrus used all the time, and flashes of his memory coincide everywhere. The high, dark Absaroka Range looms directly ahead.“ 2mi South of Joliet MT As I traveled the 40 miles to Red Lodge, these mountains grew, and grew to indeed fit words .... “looms directly ahead“. At this photo location, but on the West side of the highway is a giant gravel parking lot. Here is a safe place to stop, rest, enjoy the scenery, and review ZMM for the up-coming landscape descriptions. My research notes say: “Now I see again, how much the reading of ZMM’s Travel’ Narrative, supports, reflects upon, and amplifies, by analogy, ZMM’s twisting heavy readings in philosophy, and conversely.” Here in my notes I drew a wiggly twisty line to illustrate the twists of the highway seen already and I anticipate at mountain switch-backs ahead. This analogy the Narrator uses repeatedly, and thus is a Master Motif. So also are “streams” and “traveling towards their source”, as is seen in captions next. As I drove the ZMM Route day-after-day, many, many of the Narrator’s Various Master Motifs surfaced in mind, triggered by the passing landscape. Indeed: Philosophy Supports the Travel!! ..
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(Photo = 105-0588c …... ZMM Page = 105 …... WayPt = 124`|w|' 4030)

The Narrator Repeatedly Mentioned “Following a Creek To Its Source.“, But Where Is The Stream?
“We are following a creek to its source. It contains water that was probably snow less than an hour ago. The stream and the road pass through green and stony fields each a little higher than before.“
Fox, MT.Some 15 miles South of Roberts, MT. The Narrators “following a creek to its source“, (a Master Motif'), is not directly shown in the above photo. However a concentration of trees possibly will reveals the existence of a stream or canal, both of which are in the photo. The line of trees ahead at rignt marks an irrigation canal and a stream is on the left in a similar line of trees, as seen in the next photo. In this dry climate, trees would pretty much not be here without the stream or sponsorship of humans. Both of these effects are seen from here on into Red Lodge. Traveling South from Rockvale, MT. on Rt212, Rock Creek is to the West, and then crosses to the East side just South of Roberts, MT. This “creek-crossing” somehow, escaped my attention. Is this because Rock Creek has already been greatly depleted by the numerous irrigation canals, or too much obscured by trees? Topozone map, link below, shows Rt212 stays quite near Rock Creek, a snowmelt stream, all the way from Laurel to the snowfields. In fact you will seee on the map that the highway stays in the vally "flood plane" betwen the fairly high bluffs. This map shows Rock Creek is East of the highway within 0.4 miles, from the Roberts creek-crossing all the way thru Red Lodge and well into the mountain canyon, where it again changes sides. Click here to view Topozone map of Fox MT, irrigation canal, and dotted side-road, which is the fish camp of next photo. Opens in new browser.
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(Photo = Summer2006 0405 ...... ZMM Page = 105 ...... WayPt = 124i ~4500ft.)

This Line of Relatively Large Trees Signifies a Major Stream.
[“ We are following a creek to its source. It contains water that was probably snow less than an hour ago.“]
About 15 miles prior to Red Lodge, MT. As I traveled this way in 2002, I was actively looking for a good place to photo graph the stream mentioned by the Narrator. I was convinced the stream was here, but nevertheless was not able to bind it until Red Lodge! In fact in 02 I completely missed the presence of a continuing low bluff on both sides of the highway and missed the fact that I was traveling for over an hour in a relatively flat valley between the bluffs. As I have mentioned on earlier photos, I had not yet learned to look for a continuing line of trees in these otherwise grassy areas. So it was that I came home with no photos of Rock Creak prior to Red Lodge. (See link below.) In 2006, I was wise to the problem, and was looking even more closely! So when I saw a sign that here said "Montana Department of Wildlife Fishing Access ", I put on the brakes hard and turned left off the highway.
The link below has three good but small photos of Red Lodge. I believe the last photo, is “the stream“at Rock Creek Park in Red Lodge. You MUST click on Map for links to panoramas http://www.nwc.cc.wy.us/information/maps/area/redlodge/indexredlodge.htm (Cont.Next)
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(Photo = Summer2006 0411 ...... ZMM Page = 105 ...... WayPt = 124k)

Rock Creek South of Red Lodge. View from Montana Dept of Wildlife Fishing Access and Camping Site.
[“We are following a creek to its source. It contains water that was probably snow less than an hour ago.“]
About 15 miles prior to Red Lodge, MT. Here I discovered that Montana Wildlife Dept had constructed a large parking lot and stream side camping sites. We learned from a fishing guide that this is something that Montana has done at some 80 different public sites in order to bring in trout fishing tourist. Also this is how we learned how to find good free camp sites all over Montana!
New topic: The previous photo mentions my non perceiving that I was in a valley with continuing bluffs on both sides. I had not yet learned to look for such continuous blufs. Now that I am home I can eisly see the blufs in my several panorama shots from here. Ditto for seeing them in topo maps.These Panoramas will be placed in my Panorama Galary ASAP.
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(Photo = Summer2006 0413 ...... ZMM Page = 105 ...... WayPt = 124m)

This Line Of Trees Signifies the Presence of Rock Creek Several Miles South of Location of Previous Three Photos.
[“We are following a creek to its source. It contains water that was probably snow less than an hour ago.“]
About 10 miles prior to Red Lodge, MT. The previous photo mentions my non perceiving that I needed to look for lines of trees to see where the stream is. So here is a good example of what to look for. Now that I am home I can eisly see the more of less continuing lines of trees along the road. These can be seen in my several panorama shots from along the road here. These Panoramas will be placed in my Panorama Galary ASAP.
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(Photo = Summer2006 0431 ...... ZMM Page = 105 ...... WayPt = 124n)

The Narrator's Dark Shadows Were Much Blacker and Sharper Than Mine Shown Here.
“ ..... Everything is so intense in this sunlight. Dark shadows, bright light. Dark blue sky. The sun is bright and hot when we’re in it, but when we pass under trees along the road, it’s suddenly cold. "
Several miles before Red Lodge, MT. After Laurel, MT., I started looking for the Narrator’s Motif “Dark shadows, bright light. Dark blue sky” and “pass under trees”. The sun was indeed very intense and very hot, and the shade was wonderful when you could find it! Generally there were no trees near the highway. Even higher in the mountains, where there are more trees, I did not see trees that would provide morning shade over the main highway. With the exception of trees in towns, I did not discover any possibility of shade from “road-overhanging-trees” until well into the U-shaped valley. Even in towns one must look hard to find parking in shade. I did find shade in Joliet, MT. Although the shade was hardly “cold“,it was a most welcomed relief for my lunch and my study-up for ZMM here.
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(Photo = 107-0727 ...... ZMM Page = 105 ...... WayPt = 124i2 4582ft. Photo at = 135)

Ever Since Roberts MT, This Prominent Mountain Has Been Directly Ahead
“ We play tag with a little blue Porsche along the way, passing it with a beep and being passed by it with a beep and doing this several times through fields of dark aspen and bright greens of grass and mountain shrubs. All this is remembered. “ One mile before Red Lodge MT At a city park, the road curves left to enter town. The road from Laurel to Red Lodge is smooth and has relatively straight sections. So the “little blue Porsche” scene could have happened here or anywhere along this road. The Northwest College WebSite has three good but small photos of Red Lodge. http://www.northwestcollege.edu/information/maps/area/redlodge/indexredlodge.htm I believe the last photo is “the stream“at Rock Creek Park in Red Lodge. Links to eight nice panoramas at http://www.northwestcollege.edu/information/maps/area/pan.htm
(Photo = 105-0589 ...... ZMM Page = 105 ...... WayPt = 124i3 4582ft. Photo at 125`|w|' 5490ft)

This Line Of Trees Signifies the Presence of Rock Creek Several Miles South of Location of Previous Three Photos.
[“We are following a creek to its source. It contains water that was probably snow less than an hour ago.“]
About 7 miles prior to Red Lodge, MT. The previous photo shows an example of the lines of trees I needed to look for to to see where the stream was. Here is a second good example. The trees at left, forming somewhat of a line, are the location of the stream. Note fairly high bluff running parallel to the line of trees.
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(Photo = Summer2006 0488 ...... ZMM Page = 105 ...... WayPt = 124p)

Phaedrus’ Mountain World?
“He would use this route to get into the high country, then backpack in from the road for three or four or five days, then come back out for more food and head back in again, needing these mountains in an almost physiological way. The train of his abstractions became so long and so involved he had to have the surroundings of silence and space here to hold it straight. It was as though hours of constructions would have been shattered by the least distraction of other thought or other duty. “
(A better photo needed to show road to Red lodge MT and also illustrate the above passage from ZMM.)
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(Photo = 106-0676 ...... ZMM Page = 105 ...... WayPt = 125i. Photo at WayPt = 159w)

Approach to Red Lodge. A Small City Park Is About One Mile Ahead.
“ …. as a result of all these fragments, and thinking, returned to the University to study philosophy. His lateral drift was ended. He was actively in pursuit of something now. .. A sudden cross-gust of cold air comes heavy with the smell of pines, and soon another and another, and as we approach Red Lodge I’m shivering.“ Red Lodge MT As I traveled to Red Lodge, I was hot in the sun, but cool in the shade. Most certainly motorcycle riders would be putting on their coats. ZMM Note: Especially study the narrator’s abrupt shift to the words “sudden cross-gust of cold air …. and soon another and another“. Add to this the fear connotation of “I’m shivering.“. Here is another Master Motif, but with MUCH bigger than ordinary emphasis! We are supposed to wonder what major “fearful arrival” is being announced by “the wind”. (“The wind” is pointedly brought up 22 times in ZMM! “Wind” is another master motif for you to begin looking for!) At first Red Lodge grew up as a coal mining camp, for nearby mines. I conjecture that this road from Laurel MT, a "coal mining rail head", was originally scouted by following this stream, plus aiming direct at this mountain. The stream would provide water and fodder along the stream for draft animals used in the original opening this area. In this photo, Rt212 is going South. Note the central mountain range that fades to the right into the distance. The highway, after Red Lodge, will turn Southwest with the stream, and follow along the base of those mountains. Remember this highest mountain spire. You will see it again “straight up Main Street” photos next. (Per hindsight, a better photo is needed. A telephoto view from this same spot would be great or closer to town to best illustrate the “The high, dark Absaroka Range looms directly ahead.“.)
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(Photo = 105-0589c...... ZMM Page = 109 ...... WayPt = 125`|w|' 5490ft)

Court House Lawn and General Town View.
“At Red Lodge the road’s almost joined to the base of the mountain. The dark ominous mass beyond dominates even the roofs of the buildings on either side of the main street.“
Red Lodge, MT. The ZMM Restaurant is two blocks “up hill” from the Court House on same side. Especially note the Narrator’s fear-generating “dark ominous mass .... dominates .... “. Here is another fearful Motif which we must add to the earlier warnings “sudden cross-gust of cold air comes heavy with the smell of pines, and soon another and another, and as we approach Red Lodge I’m shivering.“ these warnings combine into a bigger than ordinary emphasis. We are to wonder what is going to happen in those mountains. This is for you. the reader to begin worrying about!! New Topic re Narrator's “smell of pines“ from those “dark ominous“ massive mountains! I did attempt to identify the smell of pines, but could not identify this until just prior to my departure from Red Lodge. My notes for Red Lodge verbatim say: “open car door -- smell pine -- different from pines at home = sweet perfume -- altitude 5733.” But earlier, just before I took this photo, I smelled mountain laurel! Following the wind, I found that the pollen-ly sweet perfume came from a huge beautiful bush on the next street East.
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(Photo = 105-0590 ...... ZMM Page = 109 ...... WayPt = 126w 5553ft)

Motorcycles on Main Street.
“We park the cycles and unpack them to remove warm clothing.“
Red Lodge, MT. The town of Red Lodge was once a coal mining town. But eventually the coal mines were exhausted, and the town was threatened with dying. Many Colorado silver mines became ghost towns during this era. The city fathers decided Red Lodge needed a “new personality”. (This is a term used later in ZMM.). The fathers, seeing the potential for tourism, lobbied hard to create a highway over through Red Lodge, over the mountains, to Yellowstone National Park. Thus there were two depression era WPA projects: 1) the Beartooth Highway was construction in these Montana Mountains and 2) The Blue Ridge Parkway was construction in the Appalachian Mountains. These massive Federal Projects, had similar motivations, federal funding, and tourist success.
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(Photo = Summer2006 0469 ...... ZMM Page = 109 ...... WayPt = 126`|k|' 5553ft)

A View of Main Street.
“We park the cycles and unpack them to remove warm clothing.“
Red Lodge, MT. As we look at these photo of Red Lodge and the Beartooth Highway, we should remember that neither the ZMM Narrator nor Pirsig have much use for what we ordinary mortals would call “tourist attractions”, even if they are full of "real world experiences or natural scenery. We see this later in ZMM, where there are the Narrator’s negative comments re Yellowstone N P and Crater Lake N. P. Evidently for reasons the Narrator completely bypassed and never mentions many, many, quite interesting places quite close the ZMM travel route!! Other examples of this "negativity" to tourist attractions, I will mention in my upcoming photos concerning: 1) Narrator's glum statement re photos = “At a turnout on the road we stop, take some record photographs to show we have been here at the first rest area of Beartooth Highway. 2) “the “Drive-Through” Redwood Tree” in Leggett CA, and 3) The several "Fantastic Giant Redwoods Forests" in Northern CA near Pacific Ocean. Here, and many other places you will see examples of the Narrator's treatment. Which is usually to ignore these attractions with nary a hint of their presence!
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(Photo = Summer2006 0461 ...... ZMM Page = 109 ...... WayPt = 126`|k|' 5553ft)

In the Summer the Sports Shops Have Small Window Displays of Ski Gear. However, Just In Case, There Is a Full Stock Downstairs Awaiting Winter.
“ We walk past ski shops and into …. “
Red Lodge, MT. In this shop I did find a huge stock of winter sports gear including ski equipment in their lower level basement. My photo of their full winter sports inventory will be placed in my Non-ZMM Experiences Album ASAP.
New topic: Here it was very comfortable in the sun but somewhat cool in the shade. Most certainly motorcycle riders would be putting on their coats for the ride into the mountains! However, the motorcycle riders I saw here usually did not have on coats. New Topic: Photos needed to illustrate that Red Lodge was originally a mining town with photos of the old mines and railroads.
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(Photo = Summer2006 0460 ...... ZMM Page = 109 ...... WayPt = 126`|k|' 5553ft)

Red Lodge Café’, Exterior View.
“ [We walk past ski shops] and into a restaurant …. “ Red Lodge, MT. This “down home” restaurant is definitely worth visiting. -- you will have a good meal and enjoy studying the huge murals. Be sure to study the general decorations and large framed. On the right, there are five huge paintings that form a semi- continuous mural of the mountains. I photographed all of these and will place them in my ZMMquality Panoramas Photo Album ASAP. From the Court House, the Red Lodge Café’ is two blocks “up-hill” and on the same side. The address is: 16 South Broadway Ave, Red Lodge, MT 59068 Phone (406) 446-1619. Click here to view review of book about history of Red Lodge. http://www.h-net.org/reviews/showrev.cgi?path=161151080296416
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(Photo = Summer06 0452 ...... ZMM Page = 109...... WayPt = 126k)

Red Lodge Café’, Interior View.
“ [We walk past ski shops and into a restaurant] …. “ Red Lodge, MT.

Reviewers Write-up
The Red Lodge café is a good reflection of the character of Red Lodge, Montana: eager to please with all modern facilities, yet ingenuous and charming like a mid-20th century tourist stop. The town (once, the home of mountain man Jeremiah Johnson) has been discovered by skiers and tourists heading down through Montana on the scenic route to Yellowstone Park, but it has not been overrun. The town is the real west, and this colorful café serves food to match.

For breakfast, you’ll want to eat jumbo omelets or blueberry buckwheat pancakes, and sip coffee long enough to eavesdrop on the conversations of locals and passers-through. The lunch menu features such stalwart items as country-fried steak and potatoes and buffalo burgers, as well as some fine deluxe hamburgers. For dessert, everybody has pie: apple or berry pie or, best of all, banana cream pie, which is a tender pillow of pale yellow custard that eats better with a spoon than a fork.
The restaurant itself has a western theme, but there is something for everyone from morning to night: keno, weekend karaoke, and the strangest-shaped pool table we’ve ever seen. Lighting fixtures above the dining room are made of wagon wheels, the ceiling is stamped tin, and the walls are bedecked with painted wooden totem poles and spectacular murals of scenery along the 11,000-foot Beartooth Highway that leads from here to Yellowstone. The two-lane highway is closed by snow in the winter, but once it’s open, it is a spectacular trip. Charles Kuralt once called it “America’s most beautiful road.”- Michael Stern

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(Photo = 105-0593c ...... ZMM Page = 109 ...... WayPt = 126k)