Where Is the ZMM Restaurant At Lolo Pass? Is It At Lolo Hot Springs Seven Mi Prior To MT-ID Border? “ [At Lolo Pass]. we see a restaurant, and pull up in front of it beside an old Harley high-miler. It has a homemade pannier on the back and thirty-six thousand on the odometer. A real cross-country man. .. Inside we fill up on pizza and milk, and when finished leave right away. There’s not much sunlight left, and a search for a campsite after dark is difficult and unpleasant.“(Cont.Next) Lolo Pass, MT & ID Border. My photos show current construction to make a new Montana Tourist Visitor Center at Lolo Pass, which is at the entry point to Montana. The Lolo Pass Visitor Center is located along the Nez Perce National Historic Trail and is a partnership of the National Park Service, the Nez Perce Tribe and the Departments of Transportation in Montana and Idaho. This center provides information concerning the U. S. Forest Service, which controls the area around here and provides visitor information for the states of Idaho and Montana. As may be seen, there concurrent extensive widening of the highway to provide turnoff lanes etc. Since the work area of the construction covers all of the relatively flat area at the pass, the construction of the visitor’s center is possibly where the ZMM Restaurant once was. However, close inspection reveals that all evidence of any previous building, at the top of the pass (if any) has been removed by the construction. There is a nice lodge and Restaurant at Lolo Hot Springs. This is in Montana about 7 mi prior to the MT-ID-border. This almost certainly must have been the ZMM restaurant at Lolo Pass. This restaurant is actually part of a Tourist Resort which always seems to happen at Hot Mineral Springs. Similar to other tourist places, perhaps we are not given the location or any other facts about the restaurant because of its tourist nature. Detour in new browser frame for http://www.montanatravel.com/index.asp/fuseaction/lodging.detail/id/76BCDC83-EF7A-4267-A8AE-A5B09A66917A To see this restaurant, scroll to 11th image on Detour in new browser frame for http://myweb.cableone.net/grumbler/lolo/ See also Detour in new browser frame for http://www.rickbrookes.com/RW18.html See also Detour in new browser frame for http://www.nps.gov/partnerships/lolo_pass_nez_perce.htm ************************************ (Photo = 110-1042c ...... ZMM Page = 243 ...... WayPt = 262w 5257ft)
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Let’s Pretend That the Narrator and Chris Are Talking To Mr. “High-Miler“ and His Wife. “As we leave we see the cross-country man by the cycles with his wife and we say hello. He is from Missouri, and the relaxed look on his wife’s face tells me they’ve been having a good trip. .. The man asks, "Were you bucking that wind up to Missoula too?" .. I nod. "It must have been thirty or forty miles an hour." .. "At least," he says. .. We talk about camping for a while and they comment on how cold it is. They never dreamed in Missouri it would be this cold in the summer, even in the mountains. They’ve had to buy clothes and blankets. .. "It shouldn’t be too cold tonight," I say. "We’re only at about five thousand feet." .. Chris says, "We’re going to camp just down the road." .. "At one of the campsites?" "No, just somewhere off the road," I say. .. They show no inclination of wanting to join us, so after a pause …. “(Cont.Next) Lolo Pass, MT & ID Border. The elevation at Lolo Pass is 5257 ft. ************************************ (Photo = 110-1046 ...... ZMM Page = 243 ...... WayPt = 263k 5129ft)
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Down We Go! “ …. I press the starter button and we wave off.“(Cont.Next) Lolo Pass, MT & ID Border. ************************************ (Photo = 110-1045 ...... ZMM Page = 243 ...... WayPt = 263w 5129ft)
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On the Opposite Mountain Is Historic Lolo Trail. “On the road the shadows of the mountain trees are long now. “(Cont.Next) Several miles after Lolo Pass, MT & ID Border. ************************************ (Photo = 110-1048 ...... ZMM Page = 243 ...... WayPt = 264k 4460ft)
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This Sign Describes the Scene In Previous Photo. “After five or ten miles.... “(Cont.Next) Five miles after Lolo Pass, MT & ID Border. ************************************ (Photo = 110-1047 ...... ZMM Page = 243 ...... WayPt = 264w 4460ft)
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Although This Is Clearly a Logging Road, It May Not Have Been the Narrator’s. “....we see some logging road turnoffs and head up.“(Cont.Next) Lochsa River Canyon, ID. This was the second available turnoff I found, but is shown here since it has logs and a view of the highway. ************************************ (Photo = 110-1070z.5 ...... ZMM Page = 243 ...... WayPt = 265i1. Photo at 269w 2376ft)
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This Dirt Road Is the Most Likely Candidate for The Narrator’s Logging Road. “The logging road is sandy, so I keep in low gear with feet out to prevent a spill. We see side roads off the main logging road but I stay on the main one until after about a mile we come to some bulldozers. That means they’re still logging here. We turn back and head up one of the side roads. After about half a mile we come to a tree fallen across the road. That’s good. That means this road has been abandoned.“(Cont.Next) First Logging Road Turnoff, Lochsa River Canyon, ID. This was the first available turnoff I found. It was a right turn and was pretty well at the bottom of the steep grade from Lolo Pass. I vaguely remember that the stream was close to the road at left. The highway down was a bulldozed grade on an exceedingly steep mountainside, hence no practical places for a logging road. Two different logging roads diverged from here agreeing with “side roads.“ ************************************ (Photo = 110-1049z.5 ...... ZMM Page = 243 ...... WayPt = 265i2. Photo at 265w 3842ft)
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This Photo Can Serve to Illustrate the Narrator’s View, Since all the Mountains In This Area Look About the Same. “I say, "This is it" to Chris, and he gets off. We’re on a slope that allows us to see over unbroken forest for miles. .. Chris is all for exploring, but I’m so tired I just want to rest. "You go by yourself," I say. .. "No, you come along." .. "I’m really tired, Chris. In the morning we’ll explore." .. I untie the packs and spread the sleeping bags out on the ground. Chris goes off. I stretch out, and the tiredness fills my arms and legs. Silent, beautiful forest . . . .. In time Chris returns, and says he has diarrhea. . "Oh," I say, and get up. "Do you have to change underwear?" .. "Yes." He looks sheepish. .. "Well, they’re in the pack by the front of the cycle. Change and get a bar of soap from the saddlebag and we’ll go down to the stream and wash the old underwear out." He’s embarrassed by the whole thing and now is glad to take orders.“(Cont.Next) Lochsa River Canyon, ID. Here again the Narrator does not do what Chris wants. Why? Why has the Narrator always pressed on down the road, to this degree of exhaustion? ************************************ (Photo = 110-1064cz.5 ...... ZMM Page = 244 ...... WayPt = 265i3. Photo at WayPt = 267x 3372ft)
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The Way Down to the Stream. “The downward slope of the road makes our feet flop as we head toward the stream. Chris shows me some stones he’s collected while I’ve been sleeping. The pine smell of the forest is rich here. It’s turning cool and the sun is very low. The silence and the fatigue and the sinking of the sun depress me a little, but I keep it to myself." Lochsa River Canyon, ID. ************************************ (Photo = 110-1058cz.5 ..... ZMM Page = 244 ...... WayPt = 265i4. Photo at 267w 3372ft)
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A Place for a Night’s Rest? “As we climb it I get a sudden depressed feeling I’ve been walking up this logging road all my life. . "Dad?" .. "What?" A small bird rises from a tree in front of us. .. "What should I be when I grow up?" .. The bird disappears over a far ridge. I don’t know what to say. "Honest," I finally say. .. "I mean what kind of a job?" .. "Any kind." .. "Why do you get mad when I ask that?" .. "I’m not mad . . . I just think . . . I don’t know . . . I’m just too tired to think . . . . It doesn’t matter what you do." .. Roads like this one get smaller and smaller and then quit. .. Later I notice he’s not keeping up. .. The sun is below the horizon now and twilight is on us. We walk separately back up the logging road and when we reach the cycle we climb into the sleeping bags and without a word go to sleep.“(End Chapter 22.) Lochsa River Canyon, ID. ************************************ (Photo = 110-1054z.5 ...... ZMM Page = 244 & End Chapter 22 ...... WayPt = 265i5. Photo at 266w 3636ft)
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Idaho Forests Along the Lochsa River. [In the opening of Chapter 24 the Narrator is having a bad nightmare, which concludes with:] “ …. There must he some kind of mistake. Doesn’t he see that they need me? I plead with the figure that I have to speak to them. It’s not finished yet. I have to tell them things. But the figure in the shadows makes no sign he has even heard. .. "CHRIS! " I shout through the door. "I’LL SEE YOU!!" .. The dark figure moves toward me threateningly, but I hear Chris’s voice, "Where? " faint and distant. He heard me! And the dark figure, enraged, draws a curtain over the door. .. Not the mountain, I think. The mountain is gone. "AT THE BOTTOM OF THE OCEAN!! " I shout. .. And now I am standing in the deserted ruins of a city all alone. The ruins are all around me endlessly in every direction and I must walk them alone.“(End Chapter 23.) Lochsa River Canyon, ID. Associated with the Narrator’s ever increasing daytime fatigue and depression, terrible dreams increasingly haunt the Narrator’s nights. ************************************ (Photo = 110-1051 ...... ZMM Page = 245 & End of Chapter 23. ...... WayPt = 265i6. Photo at 266w 3636ft)
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Mountains Along the Lochsa River. (Opening Chapter 24). “ .. The sun is up. .. For a while I’m not sure where I am. .. We’re on a road in a forest somewhere. .. Bad dream. That glass door again. . The chrome of the cycle gleams beside me and then I see the pines and then Idaho comes to mind. .. The door and the shadowy figure beside it were just imaginary. We’re on a logging road, that’s right . . . bright day . . . sparkling air. Wow! . . . it’s beautiful. We’re headed for the ocean. .. I remember the dream again and the words "I’ll see you at the bottom of the ocean" and wonder about them. But pines and sunlight are stronger than any dream and the wondering goes away. Good old reality. .. “(Cont.next) Lochsa River Canyon ID Many places in ZMM the Narrator depends on the “grounding” of everyday experience. Note here this explicit statement “ Good old reality.” In an earlier caption I discuss this clinging dependence and comforting reality. I believe this is one of the reasons that the Narrators descriptions are so fantastically accurate. Also fits the necessary stance of both the mechanic and the scientist: Total factual accuracy to make sure nature has not fooled you. The real purpose of scientific method is to make sure Nature hasn’t misled you into thinking you know something you don’t actually know.” Please return here to these photos after viewing one Pirsig photo Detour in new browser frame for http://ww2.usca.edu/ResearchProjects/ProfessorGurr/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=Pictures-Robert-Pirsigs-original-1968-trip&id=aaw (Cont.next) ************************************ (Photo = 110-1065cz.5 ..... ZMM Page = 246 ...... WayPt = 265i7. Photo at 268w 3003ft)
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A Good Morning For Jogging. “I get out of the sleeping bag. It’s cold and I get dressed quickly. Chris is asleep. I walk around him, climb over a fallen treetrunk and walk up the logging road. To warm myself I speed up to a jog and move up the road briskly. .. Good, good, good, good, good. The word keeps time with the jogging. Some birds fly up from the shadowy hill into the sunlight and I watch them until they’re out of sight. Good, good, good, good, good. Crunchy gravel on the road. Good, good. Bright yellow sand in the sun. Good, good, good. .. These roads go on for miles sometimes. Good, good, good. Eventually I reach a point where I’m really winded. The road is higher now and I can see for miles over the forest. .. Good.“(Cont.Next) Lochsa River Canyon ID. This whole passage emphasizes Quality of being alive and the Narrator's dependence on “Good old reality. .. “ But we notice, again, that the Narrator does not go with Chris, and for sure the "exploring" asked for by Chris does not happen! Why? ************************************ (Photo = 110-1063cz.5 ...... ZMM Page = 246 ...... WayPt = 265i8. Photo at 268w 3003ft)
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The Narrator Takes Time to Notice His Surroundings. “Still puffing, I walk back down at a brisk pace, crunching more gently now, noticing small plants and shrubs where the pines have been logged. .. At the cycle again I pack gently and quickly. By now I’m so familiar with how everything goes together it’s almost done without thought. Finally I need Chris’s sleeping bag. I roll him a little, not too rough, and tell him, "Great day!" .. He looks around, disoriented. He gets out of the sleeping bag and, while I pack it, gets dressed without really knowing what he does. .. "Put your sweater and jacket on," I say. "It’s going to be a chilly ride." .. He does and gets on and in low gear we follow the logging road down to where it meets the blacktop again. Before we start on it I take one last look back up. Nice. A nice spot.“(Cont.Next) Lochsa River Canyon, ID. ************************************ (Photo = 110-1066cz.5 ...... ZMM Page = 247 ...... WayPt = 265i9. Photo at 268w 3003ft)
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After Packing, Chris and the Narrator Start Down the Winding Road. “From here the blacktop winds down and down. .. Long Chautauqua today. One that I’ve been looking forward to during the whole trip. .. Second gear and then third. Not too fast on these curves. Beautiful sunlight on these forests. .. There has been a haze, a backup problem in this Chautauqua so far; I talked about caring the first day and then realized I couldn’t say anything meaningful about caring until its inverse side, Quality, is understood. I think it’s important now to tie care to Quality by pointing out that care and Quality are internal and external aspects of the same thing. A person who sees Quality and feels it as he works is a person who cares. A person who cares about what he sees and does is a person who’s bound to have some characteristics of Quality.“ Lochsa River Canyon, ID. ************************************ (Photo = 110-1053cz.5 ..... ZMM Page = 247 ...... WayPt = 266w 3636ft)
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These Huge Douglas Fur Trees At DeVoto Memorial Grove Are Truly Amazing! “But now we have with us some concepts that greatly alter the whole understanding of things. Quality is the Buddha. Quality is scientific reality. Quality is the goal of Art. It remains to work these concepts into a practical, down-to-earth context, and for this there is nothing more practical or down-to-earth than what I have been talking about all along—the repair of an old motorcycle. .. This road keeps on winding down through this canyon. Early morning patches of sun are around us everywhere. The cycle hums through the cold air and mountain pines and we pass a small sign that says a breakfast place is a mile ahead. .. "Are you hungry?" I shout. .. "Yes!" Chris shouts back.”(Cont.Next) Lochsa River Canyon, ID. ************************************ (Photo = 110-1055z.5 ...... ZMM Page = 248 ...... WayPt = 266i1 3636ft. Photo at 266p)
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Since I Have Not Yet Obtained a Photo, Please Imagine This Is The Drive After The Cabins Sign. “Soon a second sign saying CABINS with an arrow under it points off to the left. We slow down, turn and follow a dirt road until it reaches some varnished log cabins under some trees.”(Cont.Next) Lochsa Lodge, Lochsa River Canyon, ID. Photos Needed: If you visit Lochsa Lodge Please remind them to Send Picture as I have already requested. ************************************ (Photo = 110-1070c2z.5 ...... ZMM Page = 248 ...... WayPt = 266i2 3636ft. Photo at 266k)
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Since I Have Not Yet Obtained a Photo, Please Imagine This Is the Parking Near the Lodge. “We pull the cycle under a tree, shut off the ignition and gas and walk inside the main lodge. The wooden floors have a nice clomp under the cycle boots.”(Cont.Next) Lochsa Lodge, Lochsa River Canyon, ID. Photos Needed: If you visit Lochsa Lodge Please tell them how nice it would be for their pictures to be here! ************************************ (Photo = 110-1051cz.5 ...... ZMM Page = 248 ...... WayPt = 266i3 3636ft. Photo at 266k)
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